Embrace global reinterpretations of Korean food

 
 

 
Moon Jung-hoon
 
The author is a professor at the Department of Agricultural Economics and Sociology, Seoul National University and director of Food Business Lab.
 
When people eat the same food, they don’t necessarily experience the same taste or aroma. Genetic differences can make certain flavors or smells more intense for some while barely perceptible for others. Even when taste perceptions align, cultural and social conditioning often leads to varying preferences for the same dish. For instance, dishes that seem overly salty to us are considered perfectly seasoned in Europe.
 
Historically, salt was a luxury in Europe, symbolizing wealth and abundance. This association evolved into a culinary tradition of generous salting. In Korea, however, where soups and broths dominate, salt dissolves evenly, making even a modest amount feel less intense. By contrast, European dishes often involve sprinkling salt atop food right before serving, creating a sharp, concentrated salty flavor.
 
Koreans also tend to pair saltiness with umami, often derived from fermented condiments like soy sauce, doenjang, and gochujang. These staples are rich in glutamic acid, the compound associated with MSG. Even when salt is used directly, it is typically complemented by umami-rich broths made from ingredients like beef shank or anchovies. For Koreans, the harmony of saltiness and umami defines proper seasoning.
 
In Europe, on the other hand, salt is commonly combined with vinegar or herbs, often lacking umami altogether. This absence makes their salty flavors feel unbalanced to Korean palates, resulting in a perception of harshness and a lack of depth. Conversely, Europeans often find Korean cuisine overly rich and complex, making it difficult to embrace.
 
A striking example of these cultural differences can be found in Lombardy, Italy, a major rice-producing region. At local restaurants, one might encounter confusion over the Korean preference for soft-cooked, unseasoned steamed rice. Italians question why anyone would eat plain, flavorless rice. For them, rice serves as a blank canvas, requiring an infusion of sauces and spices to create risotto. Moreover, the "al dente" texture they favor is considered undercooked — if not raw — by Korean standards, while they might perceive Korean-style rice as overcooked and mushy.
 
Years ago, Japanese-style aged sashimi was portrayed as superior to Korea’s fresher, livelier counterpart on TV shows. Soy sauce was touted as the proper condiment, rather than chogochujang — vinegar added gochujang. Today, however, Japanese diners are enjoying Korean-style raw fish paired with gochujang and ssamjang. Has Japanese culinary culture regressed? Has our gochujang suddenly become more palatable?
 
Taste is not absolute. It is a cultural phenomenon, deeply influenced by learning and exposure. Even foods once considered unappealing to foreigners, like the chewy and spicy tteokbokki, have become major export hits. As Korea’s cultural content gains global recognition, Korean cuisine is naturally reaching broader audiences, resonating without the need for overblown claims about its health benefits or superiority.
 
The globalization of Korean food isn’t about asserting its excellence but about its accessibility. Today, Korean products line supermarket shelves worldwide, Korean restaurants are multiplying, and Korean chefs are finding better opportunities abroad.
 
In Paris, over 200 establishments claim to serve Korean cuisine. While some worry about the distortion of "authentic" Korean flavors, there’s no need for concern. People often start with “fusion” versions of a cuisine but eventually develop a curiosity for the authentic. This curiosity leads them to seek out traditional Korean restaurants or even visit Korea itself to experience the original.
 
Above all, we should embrace reinterpretations of Korean food as a form of homage. Just as sushi transformed into the California roll in North America, such innovations didn’t harm Japan or its culinary reputation. Encouraging chefs worldwide to experiment with and reimagine Korean cuisine can only be positive. All we need to do is establish a reliable global supply chain for authentic Korean ingredients. The creativity and adaptations are up to them.
 
Translated using generative AI and edited by Korea JoongAng Daily staff.