[WHY] Thanks for the Spam: The curious case of Korea’s holiday hampers

A customer looks at canned ham and tuna gift sets at a Lotte Mart in Gangdong District, eastern Seoul, on Jan. 16. [NEWS1]

 
Spam, canned tuna and cooking oil.  
 
This isn't someone's grocery shopping list but a collection of items that Koreans often gift each other during the country’s two major holidays: Lunar New Year and Chuseok.
 
Although many may think that fancy and expensive items would be gifted to family and friends during these two holidays, processed foods such as Spam and canned tuna have traditionally been among the well-known choices.
 
According to a survey conducted by the Korea Chamber of Commerce and Industry, 1,000 adults ranked processed food gift sets as the fourth most popular option, at 22.2 percent. Fruit gift sets topped the list at 43.8 percent, followed by health supplements at 32.4 percent and meat at 30.5 percent. Gift sets consisting of fish, daily supplies and desserts also ranked highly.
 
Supermarket branches dedicate various aisles to gift sets featuring Spam and canned tuna a week or two before the Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays, with many customers busily purchasing them for loved ones. These products are placed in fancy boxes and bags, making them presentable to be given as gifts during the national holidays. 
 
Choi Eun-hui, a woman in her 40s, was one of the people perusing a display of Lunar New Year gift sets at an Emart branch in Yongsan, central Seoul, ahead of the holidays on Tuesday. With this year's Lunar New Year falling on Jan. 29, many are preparing their gifts early.
 
“I'm actually here to look at what’s on sale as I plan to buy them a day or two before the Lunar New Year. I’m considering buying one of the assorted gift sets,” said Choi. “It has Spam and various seasonings all in one, and I think it’s a safe choice.”
 
Korea's holiday gift-giving tradition dates back to the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) when the king would gift calendars to his subjects for the New Year. People also exchanged drawings to wish for peace and well-being, with the tradition later expanding into various gift-giving celebrations.
 
Although canned ham and tuna are often seen as inexpensive foods, how did they become such popular gifts during Korea’s national holidays? 
 

A man carries gift sets wrapped in bojagi, a Korean traditional wrapping cloth, on Sept. 13, 2024, a day ahead of the 2024 Chuseok holidays in Seo District, Gwangju. [NEWS1]

 
Since when did canned ham and tuna become popular holiday gifts?  
 
Trendy holiday gifts have evolved over time depending on what was in high demand, with canned ham and tuna becoming a popular option around the 1980s.  
 
In the 1950s and early 1960s, sugar, flour and seasonings were the most popular items gifted during the two national holidays.
 
Many struggled to make ends meet following the Korean War, and food and key cooking ingredients were considered valuable items to give to loved ones.
 
“Back in the day, things like sugar used to be gifted as holiday presents because they were very scarce. Cooking oil was also a popular choice,” said Lee Eun-hee, a professor of consumer studies at Inha University.
 
Shinsegae Department Store first introduced a holiday gift catalog for the Chuseok holiday in 1965, featuring 96 items. Among these offerings, a 6-kilogram (13.2-pound) bag of sugar was considered one of the fanciest gifts to give.
 
As Korea experienced rapid economic growth in the 1970s, people began gifting products that were no longer considered everyday necessities.
 
Assorted snacks, cosmetics and dress shirts became popular options, according to a report by the Korea Consumer Agency. Coffee houses, referred to as dabang, emerged in the 1970s, contributing to the growing popularity of instant coffee gift sets.
 

CJ CheilJedang's Spam gift set [CJ CHEILJEDANG]

Canned ham and tuna entered the scene in the mid-to-late 1980s.
 
Economic growth continued, with people seeking more diverse and premium gifts for the Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Ties, scarves and canned food were among the popular choices.
 
Although canned food may not seem like the highest quality product today, it was viewed differently by Koreans at the time.  
 
Spam was initially known to Koreans as an army ration for the U.S. military, smuggled and enjoyed during times when food was scarce. In 1987, CJ CheilJedang entered into a licensing agreement with Hormel to locally manufacture Spam, which quickly became a popular item in supermarkets.
 
According to the company, around 60 percent of Spam sales have traditionally come from the Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. In 2024, 58 percent of sales came from these two holidays.  
 
Dongwon F&B's canned tuna was another popular choice. The company first launched the Dongwon Tuna gift set in 1984, selling over 300,000 sets during that year's Chuseok holiday. As of September 2024, the company has sold over 250 million sets.  
 

The Dongwon Tuna gift set sold in 1984. [DONGWON F&B]

 
Is the popularity continuing today?
 
While canned ham and tuna may not hold the title of most popular holiday gifts as they did in the 1980s, they remain steady sellers to this day.  
 
According to Daehak Naeil 20's Lab, among the 573 office workers who received holiday gifts in 2023, canned food was the third most commonly received gift, with 20.9 percent saying so.
 
Cash incentives topped the list at 34.6 percent, followed by cash vouchers at 22.5 percent. Fruit came in fourth at 20.2 percent.
 
Despite some people shunning canned food gift sets for being perceived as cheap or not special enough, they are appreciated for their practicality.  
 
"There are various processed food products in the market, many of which are included in lunch boxes sold at convenience stores, so some people may not see the need to purchase or give them as gifts," said Kim Si-wuel, a professor of consumer information science at Konkuk University.
 
"However, with the rising number of single-person households, the fact that processed foods are easy to cook, affordable and have a long shelf life makes them appealing as gift sets."  
 
According to Shinsegae’s e-commerce platform SSG.com, sales of canned food gift sets worth 30,000 won ($20.50) or less between Aug. 2 and 21 last year — during the Chuseok gift set sales period — rose 112 percent on year. Other popular choices, such as meat gift sets, only rose 20 percent.
 
LotteOn, another e-commerce platform, said it has diversified its processed food gift set offerings for the upcoming Lunar New Year, anticipating high demand due to persistent inflation.

 
"Spam is something that people don't often buy for themselves, but it’s something they will keep and eat if gifted to them," said Professor Lee from Inha University. "Spam and processed food gift sets have been around for a very long time, and it would be best to differentiate these gift sets to sustain demand."
 
 
What are the other popular options today?
 

A department store in Seoul shows the hanwoo, or Korean beef, gift sets they sell on Jan. 7, ahead of the Lunar New Year holidays. [YONHAP]

 
In addition to processed foods, fruit, meat and cash are also popular options for Koreans.  
 
According to a survey of 3,062 adults by the Korea Agro-Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation, 16.2 percent said they want to purchase assorted fruit gift sets for the upcoming Lunar New Year.
 
Apple gift sets followed closely with 16.2 percent, and beef gift sets garnered 16.1 percent.
 
“For my parents, I mostly go for hanwoo [Korean beef] or just money,” said Jung Ji-ho, a 35-year-old office worker. “You really want to give something nice to your parents, and hanwoo is also convenient because I can give it as a gift, but also enjoy it with my parents for dinner.”
 
Many companies in Korea also give gifts to their employees during the two national holidays, with many opting for e-vouchers due to convenience.   
 
On KT Alpha’s Giftishow Biz, a corporate e-gift service, Shinsegae Department Store vouchers were the most sent gifts during the previous Lunar New Year period between Feb. 5 and 11, 2024. Around 8,000 companies sent gifts to over 170,000 employees during the period.  
 
Emart vouchers followed with 20.2 percent, Naver Pay loyalty point coupons with 16.5 percent and Starbucks vouchers with 11.2 percent.
 
However, when looking at data on products where recipients can input their address to receive a physical gift, meat gift sets take the undeniable lead.
 
Handon, or Korean pork, gift sets came first with 65.9 percent, followed by hanwoo gift sets with 25.1 percent.  
 
Another common corporate gift is calendars, a popular choice for the New Year rather than the Lunar New Year. Calendars produced by banks and financial institutions are especially sought after, as they have long been believed to bring prosperity.
 
The Korea Minting and Security Printing Corporation printed around 16,000 calendars for 2025, sending them as gifts to partner companies and institutions. Following popular demand, the corporation said it is considering printing more copies.

BY LEE TAE-HEE [lee.taehee2@joongang.co.kr]