Taste of Italy mixes with local touches at Park Hyatt's Ambassador's Table

The Saltimbocca alla Romana served at Park Hyatt Seoul’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

 
[AMBASSADOR'S TABLE — RESTAURANT REVIEW]


A meal is just a meal — unless it's in the hands of people who refuse to let it be ordinary. With five-star hospitality and a chef who has spent over two decades in hotel kitchens, dining becomes a seamless two-hour experience where every detail plays its part.
 
The experience at Park Hyatt Seoul's Italian restaurant, Cornerstone, begins the moment the elevator doors slide open. Suited staff greet guests at the front counter and guide guests past a stylish open bar lined with high chairs to modern wooden tables overlooking an open kitchen that glows beneath hundreds of hanging light bulbs. All the while, sunlight pours through floor-to-ceiling windows, casting warmth over the space.
 

Park Hyatt Seoul’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

A camellia tree under a moon-shaped ceiling at Park Hyatt Seoul’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

At the heart of the dining room stands a camellia tree. “It represents the restaurant,” said Giorgio Savoini, assistant F & B manager at Park Hyatt Seoul in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. “It grows and evolves, just as the restaurant does.”
 
The meals opens with warm focaccia — a nonnegotiable in any Italian meal — served with olive oil lightly infused with balsamic vinegar and a paprika sauce. The crust is slightly crisp, while the inside remains very soft and tender, carrying a subtle hint of herbs.
 

The Insalata di Fichi served at Park Hyatt Seoul’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

The appetizer Insalata di Fichi, priced at 32,000 won ($21), arrives like a piece of art in shades of pink and white, visually captivating from the start. Ricotta, jambon, arugula and fresh figs are arranged in delicate balance. The sweetness of ripe figs, the creamy richness of ricotta and the salty depth of jambon surprisingly complement one another, while the honeycomb vinaigrette — made with raw honey and aged vinegar — ties the flavors together with gentle acidity.
 
Opened in 2005 alongside Park Hyatt Seoul, Cornerstone has long served as the hotel's signature restaurant. Its roots are firmly in traditional Italian home cooking, but it incorporates modern touches by embracing the aesthetics of Seoul.
 
“For example, while we maintain traditional ratios for fresh pasta, we slightly adjust the al dente firmness to suit Korean preferences,” said Damien Selme, executive chef at Park Hyatt Seoul, who has served at numerous hotels across the world, including France, since 2005. “We also use local ingredients like yuzu, perilla oil and seasonal vegetables to create a clean, refined finish.”
 

Damien Selme, executive chef at Park Hyatt Seoul, poses at the hotel’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul.[PARK SANG-MOON]

Tagliolini al Tartufo served at Park Hyatt Seoul’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

The Tagliolini al Tartufo (34,000 won) begins with the perfume of black truffle. Handmade tagliolini has a silky texture, coated in Pecorino, Parmigiano Reggiano and sautéed mushrooms that add unique earthy richness, which lingers quite awhile. Bold and luxurious, it is a tribute to northern Italian tradition.
 
The Saltimbocca alla Romana (58,000 won) is a dish rarely found in typical Italian restaurants in Korea. Veal loin from northern Italy is wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma, which crisps to form a savory crust, adding a playful contrast in texture with the inside, tender meat. Fresh sage infuses the dish with aromatic warmth. The dish is a reminder that simplicity, when executed with care, can be quietly memorable.
 
“We emphasize the natural taste of ingredients and pursue balance and authenticity the changing seasons,” said chef Selme.
 
The restaurant serves brunch, seasonal courses and weekend buffets, with menus that change frequently. Planning a new dish begins at least six to eight weeks in advance and follows four stages: research, test cooking and menu trials, wine pairing coordination and service simulation.
 
“Chefs, sommeliers and service teams collaborate to deliver a well-rounded table experience,” Savoini said. Such collaboration is just also one of the elements that distinguishes Cornerstone from numerous Italian restaurants in Korea. “Cornerstone also benefits from reliable ingredient sourcing, strict hygiene and safety standards, a curated wine selection by our sommelier and consistent service standards aligned with global Hyatt protocols.”
 

A plate of house-made gelati Park Hyatt Seoul’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Giorgio Savoini, assistant F&B manager at Park Hyatt Seoul, scoops gelato from the gelato cart at the hotel’s Italian restaurant Cornerstone in Gangnam District, southern Seoul. [PARK SANG-MOON]

The meal ends on a sweet, playful note with the gelato cart. Recently brought in from Italy, the red cart carries a selection of house-made gelati and sorbetti crafted from seasonal fruits and premium ingredients. Current highlights include Sicilian pistachio gelato made with Bronte pistachios, sweet mango sorbet with tropical brightness and green tea yogurt gelato. Each scoop is paired with a matching base — pistachio nuts for pistachio gelato and puffed grains for green tea. Seasonal flavors may include Sorrento lemon, Emilia strawberries or basil-infused sorbet.
 
The fun doesn't end at the food. The restaurant's mascot Pinocchio appears in different corners, thanks to a manger who play with the dolls' positions often — turning dining into a lighthearted treasure hunt.
 

Cornerstone’s mascot Pinocchio sits on a table at the restaurant in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [PARK SANG-MOON]

Upon leaving, Cornerstone brought to mind what Ferran Adrià Acosta emphasized at the Hansik conference in Seoul late October. “Going to a restaurant isn't just about eating — it's about enjoying yourself and experiencing.”
 
Cornerstone is located at 606, Teheran-ro, Gangnam District. The restaurant opens at 6:30 a.m. and closes at 10 p.m., with breaks between 10 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. and between 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m.
 

BY WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]